They call it ‘holy wine’ – or sometimes the ‘wine of friendship’. Vin Santo is a traditional Tuscan wine that is not only made commercially, but also on farms and in people’s homes. It’s a rich, sweet wine – and tastes a bit like sherry. It is often drunk at Christmas – and can be pretty potent.
It got the name ‘holy wine’ as it used to be used by the priest in Holy Communion, but today it’s often used in desserts in Tuscan restaurants, such as those in the stunning medieval city of Siena. You might also be offered a glass of Vin Santo when you visit someone’s home – hence the nickname the ‘wine of friendship’.
Vin Santo is traditionally made by drying grapes from rafters in an attic, loft or barn – an area that is warm, dry and has a free-flow of air. The grape varieties that are usually used are Malvasia and Trebbiano. After about 3 months, the grapes are pressed (probably around the end of January) and the juice is put in barrels (known as caratelli). Now comes the most important part of the process. A small amount of sludgy sediment from the previous batch of Vin Santo is added to the grape juice. This is known as the ‘madre’ (or ‘mama’) – the ‘mother’ and is considered to add yeasts, nutrients and complex flavours to the wine. The mix of ‘madre’ and grape juice is then left to ferment and the caratelli are sealed.
The Vin Santo then develops slowly, maturing with the seasons. Tuscan people traditionally leave the caratelli in a loft or attic area, so the wine experiences seasonal fluctuations in temperature (no delicate controlled conditions for Vin Santo, this is a wine that’s treated mean). At first, fermentation is slow as the Tuscan winter can be harsh, but it gets faster as the temperatures rise during the summer. The wine is usually left like this for a couple of years and then bottled on the third year. However some commercial producers leave it even longer, letting the Vin Santo become more concentrated and bottling it on the sixth year.
Vin Santo is a dark, delicious wine and is noted for its robust quality: Tuscans say that a bottle can be left open for months without spoiling the flavour. It makes an excellent after-dinner wine. In Tuscany, people also have Vin Santo with cantucci – these are little almond biscuits that you dip in your glass of wine. The cantucci soak up the rich flavours of the wine. You might also like to use it in a trifle, soaking sponge biscuits in Vin Santo before layering them with fruit, custard and cream.
Tuscany is also the home of Chianti, and you can have a great holiday exploring the quiet roads and vineyards of this gorgeous part of Italy.