Parmesan is Italy's best known cheese - and the real deal arouses foodie passions.
Parmesan – or Parmigiano-Reggiano – to give it its full name, is one of the best known of all Italian foods, and surely the country's favourite cheese. People with a passion for Italian food adore it - and won't be palmed off with inferior imitations. Parmigiano-Reggiano is a hard cheese that comes from the Emilia-Romagna region, which includes the cities of Parma, Modena and Reggio nell’Emilia. The Reggiano part of the name derives from Reggio nell’Emilia.
The name Parmesan, and Parmigiano-Reggiano, is protected (to the bureaucrats it’s a DOP – denomination of protected origin). This means that only cheese made in the designated region can be called Parmesan. The way it’s made is strictly controlled and the recipe has apparently remained the same for over 700 years. The ingredients are milk, rennet and salt: the milk is unpasteurised and partially skimmed, and comes from cows raised in a specific territory, and fed a regulated diet. No preservatives or additives are allowed.
The key to the production of top quality Parmesan is the long ageing process. It must be allowed to mature for a minimum of one year – and is usually left for two years. Although these days the cheeses are stored in warehouses, they used to be left to mature in caves - which were cool but humid.
Italians prefer to buy their Parmesan fresh from the wheel (the whole cheese), rather than having pre-cut wedges. That’s because moisture is the key to the cheese’s distinctive flavour – and the more it’s cut, the more it loses moisture. If it’s too dry it will taste rather sharp.
Look for a pale, uniform, amber colour – and avoid Parmesan with dry, white areas (you might see this next to the rind). The flavour should be slightly salty and nutty, and it should have a delicate creamy texture.
Once you’ve bought your chunk of Parmesan (and yes, it is expensive, but those with a passion for Parmesan swear it's worth it) wrap it up in greaseproof paper and then in some foil. Then grate yourself some whenever you want.
You’ll find that Parmesan turns up in lots of Italian dishes (don’t think it’s just for sprinkling on top of spaghetti bolognese). Fresh Parmesan adds a full flavour to pesto sauce, the classic Ligurian dish. It also plays a major role in melanzane alla parmigiana (aubergine parmesan), while chunks of fresh Parmesan are often eaten as antipasti, along with olives and sliced cold meats. To really enjoy the flavour you don’t have to do anything complicated. Simply cook some pasta, drain it and serve it with a generous drizzle of good olive oil and freshly grated Parmesan.
